Past Gallipoli and across the Dardanelles to Asia 11 Oct

Woke late as usual, about 9 o'clock. The plan was to leave Istanbul today and head for Izmir after taking photos inside the Blue Mosque, getting a list of Mercedes agents from the local agent and having a quick look at the Black Sea. As we leave I ask if Brian checked that there's nothing left in the kitchen. The first aim was accomplished by Brian who disappeared into the mosque while I guarded the three-pointed star. We failed the other two aims due to election rallies, getting caught in traffic and being misdirected, so we set forth towards Izmir.

By three o'clock we had been travelling for about an hour when we decided to get lunch out of the boot. Strange, no carving knife, then I realise my cup, spoon, teaspoon, plate etc were on the draining board. Back to the MoCamp where we found the tea pot was there too. A consolation cup of tea was called for. The camp boss suggested we go to the airport to try for cigars and tobacco (as Obolensky didn't get any to us). Brian manages to get 150gm there at about 4/6 per ounce, but the tobacco man is out of cigars. At last, at 5pm, we start the day's journey, having done 150km already.

After the first 200km we stop at Kesan for evening meal. Find a very friendly place where the son of the "landlord" speaks a little French. He has just finished his studies at Istanbul University and is going to do his national service in February. With raki at 3TL each the meal costs 19 - expensive - but the stuffed aubergine was delicious and the kebab very good.

So on to Gelibolu (Gallipoli) and Eceabat to get the ferry to Canakkale (Asia). Sadly, we had no idea of the significance of this area, especially for ANZACs, otherwise we would have stayed and explored next day. At Eceabat, by a stroke of luck, we just scrape onto the outgoing 10:30pm ferry. The plank is lowered for a lorry and us and the other ferry is waiting for us as we go out. It takes about 15 or 20 minutes and soon we are on our way again.

Every time anything comes towards us we drive off the road. In one case this was just as well as the on-coming lorry was in the process of overtaking an unlit breakdown. After about 120km (2 hours) we stop on a Mobil forecourt at 1am near Akçay. There is a bloke asleep inside the office, but he doesn't appear to wake as we adopt a sleeping position. A diesel tractor pulls in and ticks over for some time, nevertheless I fall asleep.

Wake at about 7am and am aware of activity. Fall asleep again till 8am when sit up and find I am observed by garage hand. Eventually don trousers and get out. Raise seat, pack sleeping bag, say good morning to the guy who by this time has come over to look at us and then depart. Stop soon and buy bread. Brian has bread and honey as we move, then stop to steal cooking apples (should have had a couple of pomegranates but farmer was coming). Brian drives and I eat bread and honey. Stop at level crossing for photo of excellent pair of steam engines pulling train. Here we turn heater off and thereafter suffer less from heat and thirst.