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Overland UK to Australia 1969 - John de Figueiredo and Brian Ridgway

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Farewell to Tehran 12 Nov

We are leaving Tehran today. The bus leaves this morning, but I'm staying behind to change the Rials for the car into $US before catching the train to Mashhad this evening. Alarm must have gone off but had singularly little effect on me. Brian gave me a prod about 7:45 and I got up remarkably speedily for me and took my stuff down to the bus, while everyone else was being horribly Canadian and Aussie and hearty. Even managed to get all the tools etc in. Ian seemed in good form, probably nervous at the undertaking of responsibility. According to John he is a complete contrast.

While the others were saying their fond farewells and leaving I had a bit of bread and some chai in the lounge. I thought John would have left, but happily I found him with Paul of PBK ie the "opposition" whose brochure we have, and one of his passengers. They seemed to be an odd crowd and had had a disastrous start to their trip mechanically. I conned some "Dio-Calm" from John and he gave me a few other items to give to Ian. He then upped and went, just like that. A fascinating bloke, but not a great listener. I wonder what the general opinion of him is on the bus.

Action! I sold the jack, pump and tyre levers for 150R, then I presented Papa with my tea pot, a sad moment, and several other items in the baby bath. He gave me 50R. Then we brought the rest of the stuff that was in the wardrobe down and put it in his office. Now I made some enquiries about buses and trains. Papa advised a 2nd class train, said that it left at 20:25 got in at 10:00 next day and cost 630R, with unknown student reduction, I wouldn't have thought of that. Off to the station to book. After quite a bit of trouble I found the required 213 bus and went to the station. The train ticket was 455R - student 2nd class so I got a ticket. It took ¾ hour from hotel to station. Leaving at 11 I got there at 11:45 and set off back at 12.

When I got back to the hotel no passport. It was having the Wave "written out" of it by some corrupt customs official as part of the deal. Heinz suggested prayer. I went and had two fried eggs and unfried chips. Just before the food arrived Heinz came looking for me, but obviously didn't see me. Afterwards I went to his room and he had passport and carnet, and we discussed the route via Bangkok and the islands. When I got to the Bank of Iran and Japan I found its hours were from 8-2 and it was now 2:40. Back to the hotel for shower, then all set to leave.

Fortunately, I find Heinz on my way out and he says go to bank in Lufthanza office Takhte Jamshid Ave - quite right when I eventually got there, $400 travellers' cheques for 31,120R (77.8) and $50 for 3,925R (78.5). Then beetle down to extremely seedy looking money changer where I was given 760Affs for 800R + 30TL. What sort of rate is that? ).