Nightmare Day in Montenegro and Kosovo 13 Sept

This turned out to be a very big day! Woke at 7:15 but couldn't stir till 7:45. Ridgway woke up and went back to sleep again so had to be woken again at 8:00. 24 dinar for 2 nights. Sun shining but ominously cloudy. The 300m ferry journey across Bay of Kotor cost 6 dinar and saves at least 30km. Excellent secondary ferry which consisted of two fishing boats held together with planks. The payload was the equivalent of nine largish cars. The five modern-day ferries can now take 50 cars each.

Stopped in a small place (probably Tivat) about 3 or 4km beyond the ferry and about 15km from Kotor, because we saw a Merc sign. Did shopping in local market. At last we found a sandy beach near Budva which is a big resort in Montenegro. About 10km further down the coast we saw an interesting looking tiny island crowded with buildings. Knowing nothing about it we took photos of Sveti Stefan (Saint Stephen). The island was fortified in the 16th century and became a pirate haven. In 1936 Villa Miločer was built as the summer residence of Queen Marija Karadordevic (1900-1961) of Serbia. It became an exclusive Aman resort in 2009.

Soon afterwards we left the coast on a very dramatic road which really clawed its way up the mountains. Looking down from above it could be seen below winding all over the hillsides against a backdrop of sea that looked almost as though you could throw a stone into it. Unfortunately, it was now raining again so no photos. The road surface was treacherous and we espied a Fiat 1100 leaning against the inside rock face with its nearside wheels in the ditch. At this point a VW van (Deutsche) passed us bound for Kathmandu. We followed it to Titograd (now called Podgorica). Descended from mountains to a plain housing Lake Skadar and Titograd, which can only have been feet above the lake level. The 'tide' seemed to be out in the lake, which is bounded to the east by Albania. Stopped in Titograd to find Juzni Jadran, a service agency billed as a Merc agent. Brake cylinder seals are available only in Lublianja! So, we must press on to Greece.

We passed Juzni Jadran on the way into Titograd so had to walk at least a mile to get brake fluid. Stopped on the way back for restorative white wine and cakes. Have to keep a careful eye on the brake fluid. Off to do battle with the roads again. Just outside Titograd we overtake four Australian birds in a red Austin 1100. The road here is going up beside a very beautiful river which is below us in a small gorge. Decide to stop for lunch. Australian birds pass again. Two junior 'salesmen' appear, one male one female, and set up stall opposite selling pencils and fags. Brian takes picture.

So far the road has been very good and up to Ivangrad (now called Berane) it remains so, but then it deteriorates to a very narrow and exceptionally twisty strip of tarmac. We arrive at Audrijevica and take photo. A lad tries to con lift then off again. RAC warns of impending gravel road over 6000ft pass and sure enough. Followed by Greek Volvo and GB Austin 1800. Up and up in atrocious ruts avoiding potholes and water courses. Buses and lorries also present hazards. Continuous rain! Near bottom collect peasant woman (about 20-25) who suddenly appears from side-track and holds up hand imperiously. Not a word of English (or German). Take her up about 5km. Cloud gets nearer and nearer, no way through underneath. Begins to get dark.

We plunge into the cloud, darkness accentuated. Top only another 500-1000ft. Huge lorry parked on hairpin which marks the top, then down. All the time in bottom or second gear. Visibility way down, can't see bends or edge of road very well. Less rutted here. When will we come out of the cloud? In places can see better without headlights despite darkness. Eventually after 2000-3000ft come out of cloud/mist. Road as bad as ever. Further down it deteriorates further to pothole warren till we reach the bottom. By now I have a good headache and feel rather sick. Brian fussing about going off the edge. Finally, 1800 and Volvo summon up courage to overtake so I can stop at next bad potholes for Brian to take over. Zoom off and up to third gear and catch up with the others. Now behind convoy of five. We get precedence over on-coming traffic. When will we get tarmac again?

(Google Maps wouldn't show me a road from Audrijevica to Peč, it wanted me to go back to Berane. I suspect this awful road is no longer in use. It was the worst road we encountered on the whole trip.)

Then suddenly there it is and we're in Peč. Drive on to Prizren on good road except just round one town where there were road works. Fortunately, we stopped in Prizren to find out which way to go and found a lad who spoke good English. We decided to stop for food. Changed money in posh hotel then the lad led us to suitably squalid café to eat. Meat balls for three and two 2 litre bottles of wine cost 18 dinar. Much revived after that and able to drive again. Give lad Times and Sunday Express and Swiss 'washers' (coins). Drive to just beyond Skopje, then Brian takes over and stops on a very "handy" lay-by on the Route 1 so-called 'autoput' where lorries roar by. Sleep fairly well in car despite uproar and Brian occupying 7/8 of seat.

Complex road-side breakfast of stewed plums for a change - though these ones had the added benefit of having been on the floor sandwiched by the jerry can. Where were we? Oh yes, just past Skopje in a lay-by which turned out to be halfway up the side of a valley with the river way below us. Drove along side of valley and then suddenly descend to the plain. Here we saw a donkey lying dead by the side of the road and a Fiat 1100 with its windscreen spread all over the road. Passed through Tito Veles (now just Veles) and thence to the border. Here there is an extremely luxurious border café shed so we stopped for a couple of slivovica (slivovitz) to use up the spare Yugoslav 'washers' and write up diary. Spent a couple of hours in the place then through into Greece.