Zadar 10 Sept

Woke at 7:15 when the fine 2-stroke 15cwt-type van, which seemed to live at the camp site, departed for its day's work. As usual Ridgers slumbered on, had to wake him finally for car keys. Stewed plums for breakfast and had cause to use wooden toilet seat. Almost everyone in this country seems to be able to speak German. The mountainous terrain continued as we headed south. An English 'behemoth' passed us on one of our photo stops. Later we saw them cooking their bacon and eggs. First real stop was Zadar, where we were charged 1.5 dinar (1s) for parking. What cheek! Wandered into very pleasant walled city, no cars allowed, looking for market. Bought food and finally tracked down market with the aid of tourist bureau. As a sideline there was a vast barrel market, and a row of women with eggs in their laps. Bought a watermelon and sat on top of town wall to eat lunch and half a watermelon, spitting pips into heater air intake of Opel Kadett below. We missed an officious car park attendant by a fraction. We walked round the town and went inside St Krsevan's church. Then on to St Donatus' circular church which is the largest Pre-Romanesque building in Croatia, but were unable to penetrate it. Sad as it incorporates Roman columns.

As we left we drove round the outside of town and saw a woman with a vast barrel on her head and a fishing boat with many barrels (tanker?). The countryside round Zadar was rather flat and the effects of the east wind could be seen dramatically. Mostly fairly fertile here, though almost barren in the more mountainous regions. It looked as though there had been a "hailstorm" of stones and boulders. The road is carved through solid rock in places and the rock is decidedly reddish, though the rest looks like limestone.